Last week, I hunkered down in Istanbul, Turkey for 6 out of the past 7 nights. Plenty of time to soak up the feel of the joint. Loud, messy, beautiful, confusing. Just the right mix to finally feel like we’ve found a bit of adventure.
I’m writing to you now from the shores of Lake Sapanca, en route to Ankara, where I’m hoping to snag a coveted Iranian visa.
Route Recap
Start: Lisbon, Portugal
End: Tokyo, Japan
Key stops so far: Lisbon, Barcelona, Rome, Thessaloniki, Istanbul
Key stops coming up: Ankara, Cappadocia
Last Week
I hung out with my Uncle Glen for a couple of days. The guy’s got stamina, no doubt. We cruised around hunting and pecking for Istanbul gems off the tourist trail — and found plenty. My top three favorites:
Visiting a hamam (Turkish bath).
Accepting the noontime call to prayer and attending service.
Tasting fermented turnip juice.
Uncle Glen, everybody.
Traveler Tip of the Week
Mind your right hand. Handshakes, eating, giving things — always with your right. The left is considered rude (because it's for... other tasks). Way easier said than done.
Last Week’s Videos
020 - The Cats of Istanbul
021 - Finishing Europe and Starting Asia - (CONTINENTS COMPLETED - 5/7)
022 - Turkish Baths are an Underrated Istanbul Gem
023 - How Far Can I get Across Turkey with $1?
Progress on the Map
Last weeks’ distance ridden: 87 miles (140 km)
Total distance ridden: 2,664 miles (4,420 km)
Looking Ahead to Iran
Americans, Canadians, and Brits are required to have a tour guide in Iran. I found one through Instagram. He’ll handle the visa application, arrange accommodation, and follow behind me in a car while I pedal across the country. (He gratefully accepted after first worrying I was asking him to pedal with me.)
For the visa, I had to submit a full CV, links to my socials, contact info, and my parents’ names — plus the usual passport copy and photos. My application went in a week ago.
If approved, I’ll enter via Bazergan and then pedal like hell to cover 2,000 km in one month — the length of my visa.
Is it Dangerous?
Iran saw a tourism boom over the last decade — 5 million visitors in 2013 alone, with numbers likely doubling since then. Statistically, tourists aren’t in significant danger — no more than biking across Peru or Kenya, for example.
As for imprisonment: it happens to two groups — journalists and people doing dumb things (like flying drones over military bases).
Unfortunately, too many well-meaning folks have seen Argo one too many times and consumed too much fear-mongering news (Fox is especially bad here), leading to a skewed view of what Iran is actually like.
If My Visa is Rejected
Plan B is a train from Georgia, through Russia, into Kazakhstan. Cyclists aren't allowed near the front in Russia right now, and a long train ride would break the (mostly) continuous pedal link — far from ideal.
So we wait. Fingers crossed for Iran.
Gear I’m Using
(Not sponsored — I paid for these — but I earn a small commission if you buy through my links, at no extra cost to you.)
Have a lovely week,
Ian
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