Since Last Time
There was a lot of anticipation around the Gobi. Months of people messaging me about 20 below wind chill. Hypothermia. About knocking Mongolian gers for a place to sleep. Whether this was finally the part where I’d need a truck.
And then I biked it. And it was fine. Boring even.
Can’t manufacture drama where there isn’t any. Truth is I got lucky. Today, Jan 19, 2026, it’s -40°F in Ulaanbaatar. Raw. Three weeks ago it was balmy -10 and the wind mostly pushed me from behind. Kept me warm and cruising quick. I had the right clothes. Kept my water unfrozen. Mentally I never hit that breaking point where you start debating with yourself about hitchhiking. I kept waiting for the moment where it gets hard. And it never really came.
Almost without ceremony, Mongolia ended and China began. A couple standard questions from Chinese border patrol about where I’m headed, where I’ve come from.
“Do you have any pictures of your trip?” Of course I do.
I delete photos as I go to save space on my phone, so I opened Instagram to show him my profile. I had pinned reels, and the first thing he saw was me in Afghan clothes holding an AK. Great. This triggered lots more questions.
Even with a visa, border patrol can still reject you. So it’s best not to be interesting in any way that makes you stand out.
Otherwise a straightforward crossing. And a straightforward ride down to Beijing.
Route Recap
Start: Lisbon, Portugal
End: Tokyo, Japan
Total Distance: ~11,000 miles (~18,000 kilometers)
Key gear: patch kit, tent, cigs
Key stops so far: Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, Albania, North Macedonia, Greece, Turkey, Iran, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Russia, Mongolia
Key stops coming up: Korea, Japan
Favorite Moment
Realizing I could leave my bike outside a store in a random Chinese town and not worry about it at all. It sounds small. But after months of worry, rushing in & out of stores, that felt nutty.
CCP Politics
One of the best parts of traveling is that when you learn new information it’s much stickier in your mind. You notice details you would normally ignore, and don’t forget them easily.
The first thing you notice is the cameras. They’re everywhere. Someone told me 700 million. One for every two citizens. I believe it. You feel watched constantly. At first it’s unsettling. That tingly hair on the back of your neck feeling.
Then you start to appreciate them. The streets are safe. Theft feels impossible. There’s an order to it. A feeling that someone is always paying attention to you, even if you don’t know who or why.
One night I’m eating dinner in a little village. Four well-dressed guys come in, sit down, order food. Started asking me casual questions through phone translation. Nosy. Where are you staying, where are you biking tomorrow.
That caught me off guard. I hadn’t told anyone about the bike. The only explanation was cameras. Secret police were tracking me.
They were polite. Friendly, even. Shared wine. One of them sat next to me for a few mins and I FaceTimed his son. Mostly they sat at a different table watching, observing. Encouraging me to drink.
Before I left I asked if I could take a selfie with them. Just gestured with my phone.
Immediate panic. No no no with their hands up. Absolutely not.
I told this story to a local guy the next day and it freaked him out. Said that our iPhones are probably listening to us. And that we shouldn’t talk any more about the government.
Chinese Food
One way to judge a countries food culture is how easy it is to eat well without really trying. I prefer spots that are unpretentious, off the tourist trail, and full of healthy looking locals.
Usually I pick a restaurant when I get hungry almost at random. Order something blind. Suck the calories down, enjoy the normal dining experience, and hope for the best.
China passes the test hard. Dumplings. Hot pot. Noodles. Duck. Kung pao chicken. Stuff I can’t pronounce. Less than five dollars for a full meal. And it has mostly been excellent.
Scale
Cities here feel enormous in a way the maps don’t show. The scale is strange. Spread out. Wide roads. A lot of the old fabric has been flattened and rebuilt into something post-modern, beige, global. Office-campus energy. Efficient. A little soulless.
Beijing surprised me though. No smog. Clean air. They moved the factories out years ago and it shows. Three concentric rings of beautiful traditional-style architecture.
Connectivity
The app ecosystem is the other big adjustment. Google, Instagram, WhatsApp don’t work unless you jump through hoops. People live inside WeChat. Payments. Messages. Ride hailing. Everything.
For internet I went with an eSIM from a global provider this time. More expensive but it just works. No VPN stress.
What I Learned / Reflection
There’s a tension I can’t quite resolve yet. The country feels safe. People are happy. Locals tell me that the economy is good. And at the same time there’s an iron grip underneath it all. Cameras. Apps. Surveillance. Things you can’t say.
China learned from the failure of the Soviet Union. They’re doing Communism different. And it seems to work for them.
I’m less certain these days about declaring systems right or wrong. Maybe some things work for some places.
Traveler Tip of the Week
If you’re coming to China, sort your apps before you arrive. It’s what I’ve personally struggled with the most. A lil pre-coordination goes a long way.
Amap for navigation. Dianping for Yelp style reviews. WeChat for literally everything else: ride share, messaging, payments.
Progress on the Map
Distance Ridden Since Last Time: 619 miles (996 km)
Total Distance Ridden: 10,416 miles (16,763 km)
Gear Update
Does anyone in Japan want a free bike? Surly Disc Trucker, size 58cm. It’s good for someone 5’9” to 6’4”. The bones are solid.
Give her new gears, pulleys, chain, cables, cable housings, brake pads, front tire and you’ll be ready to rip another 10,000 miles.
If you read this blog and can pick up in Tokyo mid-February, it’s yours. Send me a DM or put a comment.
What’s Next
I write to you now from Beijing. First real megacity in a long time. Damn near ecstatic to be in proper 1st world convenience. And a little emotional about being so close to the finish line.
Got a one week push to Qiandao, catch a ferry to Seoul, ride South Korea, then another ferry from Busan to Osaka.
Would any of you be interested in a US-based group ride. Or maybe another country. Afghanistan?
My bud suggested one of those party bike/pedal pub things. Coast to coast across US. Sounds nutty and fun.
Would you ride with me on any kind of tour?
Have a lovely week,
Ian
Did you hear about Killian Jornet's recent biking adventures in the US? Biking to all the tallest peaks then running up. 72 peaks in 31 days. That would be a great adventure for a group. People can do one or all.
Ian — congratulations on making it across the Gobi! What a relief it wasn’t the nightmare you (and we all) had anticipated.
What one reads in the media and hears from friends and family members about China has a tendency to be bad. It’s so interesting to read your take on it. I’m almost intrigued to visit one day.
I told your story to my mother. She was amazed, said you’re very courageous, and we wish you the best of luck on your final push. If you’re ever biking across Texas, let us know. I might hit you up.